Camino Podolico: St. James Way of Podillya or Camino de Santiago in Ukraine
Camino Podolico: St James Way of Podillya is a cultural and ecological route from Vinnytsia to Kamianets-Podilskyi through the town of Bar. It’s developed on the base of the St. James Ways, which runs through Europe and leads to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
This is the first walking cultural route in Ukraine, which has the same attributes as its older Spanish brother Camino de Santiago: pilgrim’s passports and certificates, special stamp collecting, route scheme, etc. The only thing that is still missing - albergos, special hostels for pilgrims. However, every 20-25 km you will find cheap hotels, guesthouses, hostels, dormitories, restaurants and cafes.
Selyshche - Cherlenkiv Castle
It is impossible to see all the picturesque locations that will be available during the route if you move by transport. The banks of Podillyan rivers, sparsely populated spots, forests and fields, trails leading to fascinating and little-known places - all this will be open to anyone who walks the way.
Camino Podolico connects 13 points of Vinnytsia and Khmelnytskyi regions. This is a great opportunity not only to see the interesting places of Ukraine, but also to feel their atmosphere, learn the local mentality, relax from hustle and bustle, cleanse yourself of unnecessary thoughts, test your strength, perform a kind of quest (collecting 13 stamps in the passport in no more than 30 days continuously), and just stretch your legs.
So far, this is a test version of the way. The Route will be continued to the border with the EU soon and join the international St. James Ways. This year, more than 150 travelers from different parts of Ukraine have already completed the route completely or in part.
Vinnytsia - St. Nicholas Church
Reference
The Way of St. James, or Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage route, known since the 9th century, leading to the tomb of the Apostle James in the Spanish city of Santiago de Compostela, the main part of which runs through northern Spain. The city of Santiago de Compostela, where this road leads, is the third most important shrine place of Catholicism. Every year the popularity of the route grows: in 1978, only 13 people passed on it, in 2018 - more than 327 thousand, and in 2019 - 347 578 pilgrims. (Source https://followthecamino.com/en/blog/the-camino-de-santiago-hits-record-numbers-in-2019/). In 2021, the number of people willing to pass the route increased again after the pandemic restrictions. The route was declared the first European cultural route in October 1987 and was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1993. In 2010, Pope Benedict XVI visited the sanctuary.
A shell is the symbol of the pilgrims of Camino. Large numbers of them are on the shores of Galicia. Pilgrims collect them as souvenirs. They follow the path of St. James not only due to religion but also to relax from the city life or find new acquaintances. Here you can meet people from different parts of the world, different religions and beliefs.
Vinnytsia - Sabariv
Things you need to travel
First, you should keep track of time and book an overnight stay in advance (prices range from 5 to 15 EUR per person). To do this, you must first determine whether you are ready to go all the way, or one of its parts (Vinnytsia-Bar 100 km or Bar-Kamianets-Podilskyi 150 km). You need to ride all the way, if you wish to complete the route by bike.
Vinnytsia - Holy Transfiguration Cathedral
Of course, passing the route is a challenge to yourself, especially in physical health. However, with the organization, everything is much easier. You can download the electronic track of the route by the link. There are yellow arrows along the entire way that show where to go; a printed map is issued together with the passport. You can find all the useful information about the project on its webpage. Regarding nutrition - in most settlements along the route are cafes where lunches are available (from 2 to 4 EUR). In small villages, you can buy snacks in the store or arrange meals in a private estate.
How to become a pilgrim
You need to visit the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Angels in Vinnytsia (12 Soborna St) to get a pilgrim's passport and the first stamp, becoming a true pilgrim. This is a symbolic place, because the St. James Way was originally a Christian pilgrimage route, although later it became quite secular and touristic.
Vinnytsia - Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Angels
Reveal the hidden places of Vinnytsia
After the church, the pilgrim goes to Castle Hill. where once stood the Vinnytsia Castle of the 16th century. Nearby, on a hill above Pivdennyi Buh, is St. Nicholas Church. The church is a brilliant example of traditional Ukrainian wooden sacred architecture of the Cossack Baroque era.
Vinnytsia - St. Nicholas Church and Bell Tower
Then the route goes through the Sabariv Forest. Nearby is a place where you can find inspiration - Kotsyubynskyi's Stone with the quotes from the writer’s works. People say that he liked to sit on these stones and think about the themes of future creations.
Vinnytsia - View from the Old Town Bridge
Then the route leads to the trail along Pivdennyi Buh. It is one of the most picturesque parts of Camino Podolico. There is the wooden Church of the Dormition on the hill (built in the second half of the 19th century) in Prybuzke village along the route.
Prybuzke - Holy Dormition Church
Behind the bridge there’s a meadow with a strip of trees. Keeping on the right bank of the river, you can walk to Selyshche village; the road leads directly to the tower of Cherlenkiv Castle. Apart from it, there are other fascinating places in this settlement: Mariin Park, a horse farm, and the remains of ancient religious buildings.
Hnivan, Religious Shrines, Dracula's Castle and the first night
Hnivan is a rather large settlement. The town has two fascinating and majestic religious shrines: St Joseph Sanctuary and the Church of the Holy Spirit. Moreover, here is the mysterious house wich is considered to be a copy of Dracula’s manor, about the appearance of which not even all citizens know.
Hnivan - St Joseph Sanctuary
There was a huge sugar factory, which went bankrupt in the late 1990s. Today there is Staryi Zamok Hotel&Restaurant in one of the factory buildings. Hetman Hotel is another place to spend the night (located next to the Railway Station).
Hnivan - Sugar Refinery Building (now a hotel)
Swim in the clear water and relax in a protected area
There is a picturesque island at the confluence of rivers (you can see it from the bridge). Mohylivka village begins after it.
Mohylivka - Church of St. Basil the Great
You can hear a permanent knocking leaving Mohylivka in the direction of Brailiv. This is the Demydivka Granite Quarry. In Demydivka (founded by the Cossack Demyd) is the Church of the Intercession, as well as a manor, which now carries out of a school.
Demydivka - Church of the Intercession
You can have a rest in the Volodymyrska Dubyna, which is in front of Volodymyrivka village. This is a protected area of 155 hectares - mostly hornbeam forest, through which the river Riv flows.
Green tunnel between Demydivka and Volodymyrivka
The picturesque views of the Brailiv HPS will be a few kilometers away from the river.
The multi-religious Brailiv and its legendary musical past
Brailiv Town is much smaller than Hnivan but rich in cultural and architectural monuments. There is an Orthodox Nunnery, the main shrine of which is a copy of the icon of the Mother of God of Brailiv. It is possible to spend a night here. You can also spend the night in the dormitory of a lyceum.
Brailiv - Holy Trinity Convent
There are two synagogues near the monastery. The opposite is the Roman Catholic Sanctuary of Jesus Nazarene, and at the other end of the town is an ancient Catholic Cemetery with a chapel (1825).
Brailiv - Sanctuary of Jesus Nazarene
A special tourist attraction is the former estate of the von Meck family. Pyotr Tchaikovsky lived and created there and Claude Debussy later was here too. Now there are two institutions: the first one is a school in most of the manor and the second one is the Tchaikovsky Museum in the corner tower. Moreover, there is a park with a canal around the palace.
Brailiv - Von Meck Manor
Crossing the river, then over the forest, you must go towards the Brailiv railway station. Then, turning left across the railway track, go through Leliaky village.
Brailiv - The Riv River
Zhmerynka and its legendary ship sailing to Odesa
The railway station divides Zhmerynka into three approximately equal parts. The town has a beautiful park with a stadium, ancient churches, cinemas, supermarkets, and cafes. You can stay here in two motels: Avtotema Hotel or YakDonalds &Co Hotel.
Zhmerynka - Alexander Nevsky Church
Architect Zinoviy Zhuravsky built the incredible railway station in 1904. This is one of the most beautiful railway stations in Ukraine. Its style is neo-baroque; the prototype is the Munich railway station. The building resembles a giant ship that departs to the Black Sea. There is a monument to Ostap Bender, who, according to the book, visited the city.
Zhmerynka - Zhmerynka Railway Station
The Historical Museum is one of the most beautiful buildings in Zhmerynka. It was built in the early twentieth century for Count Heiden in the Art Nouveau style. The museum's collection includes 3.3 thousand exhibits (furniture, musical instruments, family documents, and personal issues of famous city residents), old photos of Zhmerynka, its railway station, numerous churches, etc.
Zhmerynka - Mansion of Count Heiden (Museum)
Berry Region - Severynivka
The route leads in a highway from Zhmerynka. After Mali Korostivtsi you can get water at the spring of St. Mary. It is very close to Severynivka.
Severynivka - Orłowski Estate
The key attraction of the village is the palace of the founder of the village Severyn Orłowsky. There is a sanatorium nowadays. Also there is a museum and a Clay Quarry (it even produces rare blue clay). Moreover, there is the ancient Orłowski tomb in the old cemetery near the village council (it was destroyed but still very impressive).
Severynivka - Orłowski Chapel
Another feature of the village is the huge number of raspberries. In July 2021, the Raspberry Fest took place here. The longest raspberry pie was baked here and recorded in the Ukrainian Book of Records.
Severynivka - The cattle yard of the Orłowski
Bar - the equator of the route and the keeper of legends
From Severynivka to the neighboring Cherniatyn you need to go through the ancient park. There is a picturesque meadow with a natural rock and a magnificent view of the moat. Neo-Gothic style Cherniatyn Palace is one of the most beautiful palaces in Ukraine.
Cherniatyn - Witosławski-Lvov Palace
Bar is another large and legendary city on Camino Podolico Way. It was associated with the name of Queen Bona Sforza, who named it after her native Italian city of Bari and granted Bar the Magdeburg Right, exempting its inhabitants from taxes for 12 years and forming the Bar Starostvo. There are the remains of Bar Castle - fragments of bastions that you can see from the river, where is a park now. Bar Castle was once the second largest town after Kamianets, so it was called "the key to Eastern Podillya."
Bar - Remains of Bar Castle
There are two religious buildings not far from the park: the Church of St. Anne and the Orthodox Assumption Cathedral. Both buildings have an interesting history and architecture.
Bar - Church of St. Anne
One of the oldest buildings in the city is Assumption Cathedral, which was built in the late Baroque style. Until recently there was the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary, and now the image is in the new Orthodox Convent, located on the road to the Haiove Village.
Bar – Assumption Cathedral
A little further from the church is the monastery of the Benedictine Sisters. Behind the building, you can find a beautiful birch alley. The monastery has repeatedly become a shelter at night for pilgrims Camino Podolico. Moreover, there are two local hotels - "Perlyna" and "Barcelona". Guesthouses are located in the villages of Haiove and Harmaky (not far from the city).
Bar - Benedictine Sisters Convent
If you come from Vinnytsia you can complete the route in Bar, or continue your journey or start your journey to Kamianets with a passport issued here.
Bona Sforza Mountain and wonderful landscapes
You should see Bona Sforza Mountain in Chemerysy Barsky if you wish to admire Bar and relax in a beautiful place. Its height is 30 meters. The observation deck with the tower offers the best views of Bar, its sights, and a large pond.
Chemerysy-Barski - Bona Sforza Mountain
Further to Yaltushkiv, you can move by road through Chemeryske, or through Okladne and Zhuravlivka - there is a church of Dmytro Solunsky. There is the miraculous image of Nicholas the Wonderworker with Saints Peter, Paul, and Catherine.
Yaltushkiv - Kazan Mother of God Icon Church
You can spend the night in Yaltushkiv, in the center of which there are several interesting old houses and a park from the destroyed landed estate. In addition, there are ruins of a formerly magnificent Polish palace in the neighboring village of Bilychyn.
Yaltushkiv – A Pond between Yaltushkiv and Sloboda
Vinkivtsi sights and famous cheeses
Small Vinkivtsi lie on the steep banks of the river Kalyus. Here is the Kosielski Palace, built near 1863 in the Italian style. One of the buildings of the local hospital is the remains of the palace. The building stands on a hill: it has two floors on one side and three floors on the other.
Vinkivtsi - Kosielski Palace
Near the palace is The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which was built in the first half of the 17th century. Here is the image of the Franciscan Anthony of Padua, who was canonized almost immediately after his death. The church was destroyed because of Khrushchev's persecution of religion.
Vinkivtsi - St. Demetrius Church
The highlight of Vinkivtsi can be their cheeses (made at a local factory).
Zinkiv, ancient buildings, a waterfall and hand-made sausage
From Vinkivtsi to Zinkiv it is necessary to go on the route T-23-15, a third of which passes through Vinkivtsi forest. It is much easier to hike here and you can take a break.
Zinkiv - Castle and Church of the Holy Trinity
The ancient town of Zinkiv is located on the left high bank of the river Ushytsia, from the right bank of which you can see the incredibly beautiful views. Only 1,500 people live in Zinkiv, but there are many attractions despite its little population.
Zinkiv - Remains of Zinkiv Castle
You can find the old school, built in the early 19th century. The exterior of the monument with Tuscan porticos and frieze is well preserved. On the neighboring hill, there are ruins of ancient fortifications of Zinkiv Castle in the middle of the 15th century. Now only a part of the south tower and the cellar of the living space have been preserved. There are also two ancient churches: the church of St. Trinity and St Michael Church.
Zinkiv - St Michael Church
In Zinkiv, you can notice not only historical but also natural monuments. Thus, in the spot "Dubyna" is a beautiful two-stage waterfall, the height of which is 30 meters.
Zinkiv - Holy Trinity Church
Along the banks of the Ushytsia, you can go further south and through Adamivka go to the Velykyi Olexandriv. If you wish, you can go to the spring and the so-called Marusia stone - there are magnificent views. You can stay in Zinkiv in several green estates. In addition to spending the night, you can taste a locally baked sausage.
Zinkiv - Church of the Ascension
Unique Maliivtsi waterfall and residence
In Maliivtsi the most interesting thing is the residence of the Orłowski and the waterfall. Some rooms are preserved to our times (the best of which is the former ballroom with a balcony for the orchestra). Its walls and ceiling are decorated with stucco with images of musical instruments and floral ornaments. The lady's boudoir is decorated with a wall of pink marble; dark green columns are preserved in another small room. A very interesting detail of the exterior is the figures of the Atlanteans holding the balcony of the Ballroom on their shoulders. The park laid out by Dionysius MacClare is also well preserved; just below the palace is a beautiful small pool, the water to which flows from the mouth of a lion. Ponds with artificial islands were also preserved. There is also a water tower over the residence. It is very similar to the castle tower.
Maliivtsi – Orłowski Estate
Near one of the ponds is a unique waterfall. This is a large rock, which resembles the profile of a human face. Behind the mouth and eyes, there are two artificial caves, located one above the other. There is also a small chapel; there was a cell of Basilian monks. Moreover, on the "nose" of the waterfall flows clear water. It originates from a spring above the rock, next to which is a small pond with cold water. Above the spring is a statue of St. Onuphrius, and if you walk a little further along the hill, you can find another old statue of St. Jan Nepomuk.
Maliivtsi - Maliivtsi Waterfall
In the Maliivtsi Palace, you can get a mark and put a tent on the campsite. For a more comfortable overnight stay, you can stay at the Bernadin guesthouse.
Maliiivtsi - Orłowski Estate
Dunaivtsi Estates
In the center of Maliivtsi, you need to turn left and, crossing the river Ushychka field road, go to the village of Pidlisnyi Mukariv, where St Joseph Church is, and admire the beautiful stained glass windows.
Then you move to a town called Dunaivtsi, where two old Polish estates were preserved. One of them is now a hospital, and the other (Krasiński Palace) now is a house of culture. In the center near the stadium is a former Capuchin monastery - now an Orthodox church. There is also a museum of local lore and a museum of nature in Dunaivtsi, as well as an interesting Lutheran church, built since independence and St Michael Archangel Church.
Dunaivtsi - Kirche
A picturesque road to the villages of Shatava and Makiv
In order not to go on a crowded international route towards Kamianets, you need to go near the Ternava River and go south through the village of Sichyntsi (there is a mill of the 18th century). After this, go to Panasivka and Kryvchyk. There is an old Polish palace, which hosts a special school. In the next village Mykhailivtsi it is necessary to reach Svirhova Mountain, under which the Hnylovodka River begins. A few more kilometers along the field road will be the way to Shatava village.
There is the St John the Apostle Church (an unusual round building), built in 1839-1862 at the expense of parishioners with the help of the Polish landowner Raciborski from Makiv. Interestingly, the church authorities did not immediately agree to consecrate the church, because they considered it uncanonical. Indeed, the characteristic pointed windows of the church are more reminiscent of a Catholic church than an Orthodox. The church is visible from the restored road from Kamianets. The interior is decorated with neo-Gothic windows and a decorative strip with floral patterns under the eaves.
Shatava - St John the Apostle Church
In neighboring Makiv, you can stay overnight at the Hutor Hotel before the final route to Kamianets-Podilskyi.
Makiv - Karmaliukova Mountain
The final step for the certificate through the mountains and over the river
On this final part of the road there are many interesting things to see. In Makiv, you should find the technical school, or rather - its dormitory. The two-story building, decorated with pilasters and mascarons, is the only thing left of one of the best Podillian estates that was built in the 1820s.
Makiv - Wing of Raciborski Manor
From here, we go to Karmaliukova Mountain, in the neighboring village of Pryvorottia Druhe. The mountain is part of the main Tovtry Mountains (60 meters high and completely covered with forest). According to the legend, the heroic outlaw Ustym Karmeliuk was hiding on this mountain. Near the mountain are abandoned galleries and a pond on the Muksha River.
Makiv - Between Makiv and Karmaliukova Mountain
It is necessary to go to Humentsi, from there the road through the railway tracks lays to Nihinsky highway T 23-21, which in a few kilometers will lead to the historical and cultural capital of Podillya - Kamianets-Podilskyi.
Makiv – The pound near the Ukraina Sanatorium
Few people know, but staying on Nihinsky Highway, you can walk to the Roman Catholic Sanctuary that stands next to the old cemetery. The temple is extremely interesting, with old altars brought from the Ternopil region.
The legendary Kamianets-Podilskyi
You need a few days to see everything in Kamianets-Podilskyi because there are so many architectural monuments that it is impossible to get around in a few hours.
Kamianets-Podilskyi – Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle
First, this is a fortress city. The old town is located on a large steep and rocky plateau. Smotrych River washed it all sides by the waters of the river. If you look at it on the map, it looks like a horseshoe. The key to the Old Town for centuries was the Castle, because of the only bridge that led to Kamianets.
Kamianets-Podilskyi – Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle
Old Castle
People say that the first fortifications appeared here in the 11th-12th centuries. Its next reconstruction took place in the 15th-16th centuries, since then it has preserved to us without significant changes. The castle was so powerful that, according to the legend, in 1621 Sultan Osman, seeing it, said “might Allah storm it”, and took out his army. Bohdan Khmelnytskyi's Cossacks also failed to take fortifications. Only in 1672, Ottomans took the Old Castle after a long siege and captured the Upper New Castle. However, not all of the citizens surrendered; some people blew up a Powder Tower, which was never rebuilt.
Kamianets-Podilskyi – Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle
The castle has ten towers. Ustym Karmaliuk was imprisoned in the highest tower that was built with the help of Pope Julius II in the 19th century. Today, various festivals are held on the territory of the fortification, so it is also the capital of historical reenactments. The Old and New Castles offer an incredible panorama of the northwestern part of the Old Town - the so-called "Catholic facade". This is not surprising: in pre-communist times, it consisted of monasteries of the following orders: Carmelites, Jesuits, Franciscans, Dominicans, and Trinitarians.
Kamianets-Podilskyi - Town Hall
The city has a complex of the Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral and St. Nicholas church of the Dominican monastery (the highest building of the city).
Kamianets-Podilskyi - Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral
Armenian Quarter, Cats and the Rus’ Gate
A cozy Armenian Quarter begins right next to the Dominican Monastery. If you go down the cozy streets of the Armenian quarter, where many cats live, below, you can see the abandoned barracks of 1777, and even lower - the Rus’ Gate. This is a complex of fortifications from the 16th century. Above it begins another street that leads up to the Trinitarian Church. On the steps of the Trinitarian Church, we see the figure of the Madonna, and on the gate are the figures of the founders of the Order, Jean de Mata and Felix de Valois. Kamianets-Podilskyi is increasingly becoming one of the main tourist spots of Ukraine. In addition to the permanent festivals of historical reconstruction, there are balloon flights all the time, which attract people even more to the city. In short, in this city, whose coat of arms is the bright sun, you have to spend a few days, because you deserve the rest after hundreds of kilometers.
Kamianets-Podilskyi - the Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross
What to take on a journey and how to have fun
The length of the route is 252 km. You can hike it in 10-14 days or cycle in 5-7 days. To have a comfortable trip and see all the attractions that are on the route, you should follow these rules:
- Your strength. Do not walk more than 21 km and cycle more than 50 km during the day. If you do not have time to get a hostel, you can take a bus;
- Choose your clothes and shoes carefully. In summer, it is better to take sandals (necessarily with socks!) and sneakers for walking on the ground.
- Plan your day. It is better to go most of the way to lunch, especially in summer. The best way is to start at 7 am to sit in the heat of the day in a cool place. Take a break every hour for 10-15 minutes
- Do not forget to drink water. Be sure to wear a hat and sunglasses.
- Do not bring unnecessary things on a journey.
- Remember the official documents of the pilgrim. You can get a passport and the first stamp at the beginning of the journey in the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Angels in Vinnytsia or the Public Library in Bar. Look for places to stamp collecting in the guidebook.
- You should see all the available information on the official Camino Podolico Facebook page and on the website www.caminopodolico.net before going on the route. Information supplements and improves, so you should follow all possible updates.
- Do not forget to book your accommodation in the places mentioned in the guide or take a tent with you before you start your trip. The route is just beginning its development, so the number of places to spend the night is limited.
The project is implemented by Bar City Council in partnership with Vinnytsia City Council, as well as territorial communities of Vinnytsia and Khmelnytskyi regions as a part of the program "Culture. Tourism. Regions" of the Ukrainian Cultural Foundation and the State Agency of Tourism Development of Ukraine.
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